The Foodie’s Guide To Taipei, By BAO Chef Erchen Chang
A good meal does more than just fill you up. It excites you, surprises you, transports you – immersing you in a new culture, country, or environment with each bite. Food can even bring you home. That rings true for Erchen Chang, co-founder and creative director of BAO, whose Taiwanese eateries across London are directly inspired by her upbringing in Taipei. “I left the island 20 years ago, but it’s a place I always return to,” she says.
If you’ve ever been to BAO, you’ll know that this is traditional Taiwanese cuisine, with a modern spin. Emulating the small-plate vibe that’s sweeping the culinary world of late, the concept focuses around perfecting one key dish – you guessed it, light, fluffy bao buns, with fillings ranging from confit pork to fried chicken and even a deep-fried bao stuffed with Horlicks ice cream for dessert (which is as heavenly as it sounds).
Considering she’s behind a perennially popular London restaurant (queues can often be seen snaking down the street outside the original spot, BAO Soho, and bookings are quickly snapped up across all sites), Chang doesn’t have a background in food. But what she does know is the home cooking she grew up with, and the places she likes to eat during her regular visits back to Taiwan.
After graduating from London’s Slade School of Fine Art, Chang made one of these trips with her now-husband, Shing Tat Chung, and his sister, Wai Ting Chung, “seeing family as well as eating my way around all things old and new,” she says. It was on returning back to London, inspired after their culinary tour, that the trio decided to launch a restaurant concept inspired by their home country.
It started in 2012 with pop-ups in London, which led to a permanent spot in foodie hotspot Netil Market. They then went on to open the original BAO in Soho in 2014 – which was recently awarded the Michelin Bib Gourmand for the ninth year in a row.
It started in 2012 with pop-ups in London, which led to a permanent spot in foodie hotspot Netil Market. They then went on to open the original BAO in Soho in 2014 – which was recently awarded the Michelin Bib Gourmand for the ninth year in a row.
Now, there are six BAO eateries dotted across the city, each offering their own subtle slant on Taiwanese cuisine, from the restaurant based on Taiwanese beef noodle shops in Shoreditch to the latest outpost in the City, which focuses on larger plates for groups to share (though the beef rice bowl is so good, you’ll want it all to yourself). Several of the sites are even home to some unexpectedly killer karaoke rooms – seriously upscale (yet seriously fun) spaces inspired by the KTV rooms across Asia. Think chic design, sleek karaoke systems and private dining while you sing your heart out.
It’s safe to say that BAO is the epitome of tradition, with a twist. A sentiment that comes from its founder, whose approach to the menus, the restaurant design (her role as creative director means she oversees all artistic aspects of the brand) and even her dining choices when she’s off the clock all centre around celebrating her home country, while looking ahead to what’s next.
“Taiwan is both a source of inspiration and nostalgia to me,” says Chang. “A place that continues to shape my journey.”
During her most recent trip to the country’s capital, Taipei City, Chang shared her favourite restaurants with Service95 – both the spots she returns to time and again and the local gems where you can try traditional dishes that, for Chang, conjure that sense of home.
From ‘stinky tofu’ to ‘disco pork chop rice’, prepare to discover a whole new culinary world – this is the ultimate foodie-approved guide to Taipei…
5 Places To Try Xiao Chi (Or ‘Little Snacks’) In Taipei
- Stinky Tofu Boss 臭老闆臭豆腐 – ”In Taiwan there are two types of stinky tofu, one that’s deep fried and served with pickled cabbage or a steamed version that’s served in a light spicy broth, often with sweet Taiwanese basil. The tofu itself has been fermented, it has a rich and deep flavour. The tofu has lots of pores that soak up the broth like a sponge. The texture is soft and juicy. You have to ignore the smell to get to the taste.”
- Fu Hung Soy Milk 阜杭豆漿 – “A famous place for both locals and visitors. I would go on a weekday, either early or late morning (say 5.30am riding on my jet lag or around 11am). If you go on the weekend or at a peak time, then the long queue wraps around and around like a snake. My cravings are always the dan bing egg omelette and their sweet soy milk. The soy milk is so rich and addictive – a texture and flavour hard to come by anywhere else in the world. The dan bing omelette has a ‘QQ’ texture that I love.”
- Dong Yi Pork Chop 東一排骨 – “I refer this place as ‘disco pork chop rice’, where old ladies work in a ’70s club serving pork chop rice. Where old boss ladies with their perfect hair stand behind the counter surrounded by crystals and stones, watching us eat. I normally go for the pork chop rice and a fresh watermelon juice and take my moment soaking in the place.”
- Hong Yeh Cake 紅葉蛋糕 – “Softest Asian chiffon base cake with lightest cream. Every time I return to Taipei, I can’t resist getting one, even if it’s not my birthday.”
- Yu Ping Yuan Mochi Shaved Ice 御品元冰火湯圓 – “Fluffy shaved ice topped with hot and soft mochi filled with sesame or peanut puree, drizzled with osmanthus syrup. The texture of the mochi is amazing” soft and not overly chewy. It’s also a dream to look at.”
4 Of The Best Restaurants In Taipei
- Ji Jia Zhuang 雞家莊 – “One dish I always have to get when I’m back in Taiwan is 白斬雞 (Taiwanese cold poached chicken). Traditionally made with wild chicken, it has a thick skin that becomes silky and bouncy when poached. Once chilled, a natural jelly forms between the skin and the flesh, adding an extra layer of texture. The meat itself is incredibly tender and full of flavour. Ji Jia Zhuang is a Taipei institution. I grew up eating there, and the ambiance is pure nostalgia, with its old-school interior, polished burl wood ceiling and waitstaff in classic uniforms. Order the ‘three treasure chicken’ and chicken fat rice, and finish off with their classic flan for dessert.”
- Chan Chi Hot Pot 詹記 – ”The most fun hot pot place in town! A must.”
- Xian Jin Seafood 先進海產 – “Quick fry or re chao restaurants is one of my favourite forms of dining. It’s casual and gritty. First, you get welcomed by an ice bed of seafood before the entrance of the restaurant. This is before you sit down – you can point and order with the host. Usually there’s no menu; they will ask you how you’d like the seafood cooked. It’s a place I would recommend to go with a group of people. It’s more fun and you can try lots of dishes! Some highlights from this place are stinky tofu, stir fry sword bamboo, stir fry fern, salt and pepper tofu and stir fry clams.”
- Moon Moon Food 雙月 – “This place has a short and concise menu: the food is nourishing and comforting, the flavours are balanced and light.”
Erchen Chang is co-founder and creative director of BAO
Olivia McCrea-Hedley is Copy & Production Editor at Service95
