My Hometown: Creative Director Gustra Adnyana “Ubud Possesses A Spiritual Force Unlike Anywhere Else”
The annual Ubud Writers & Readers Festival will take place from 23-27 October, with Service95 partnering on several events over the weekend (see the full list here). To celebrate, we’ve handed the spotlight over to the festival’s programme manager, Gustra Adnyana, who shares with us, as part of our My Hometown series, what it’s like to grow up and work in the enchanting town of Ubud. Plus, don’t miss his insider guide of the best food, drink, art & culture to experience if you’re visiting…
What Was It Like Growing Up In Ubud?
Growing up in Bali felt like being a caterpillar turning into a butterfly. Imagine living on a wild island and you’re the butterfly, flying freely, feeling accepted and safe wherever you go. Sometimes, you sit quietly, like a cocoon, meditating in peace, and then suddenly find yourself in the midst of vibrant religious ceremonies and celebrations. If I were to be reborn, I’d choose Bali again in a heartbeat.
I grew up in the heart of Ubud village, in a Brahmin-Hindu Balinese family, right next to the Ubud Royal Palace and across from the Ubud Market. A small river ran through the village near my house, though it might be hidden now beneath the cafes, hotels, and restaurants that have sprung up due to tourism, especially after [the 2010 film] Eat Pray Love.
My childhood memories are full of the evenings spent at the Ubud Royal Palace. My friend and I would sneak in through the back to watch dance performances without tickets. I’d sit quietly, mesmerised by the dancers as they prepared backstage. To this day, I love the magic of being backstage – watching artists get ready, sharing quiet moments before stepping into the spotlight.
My father, a football player, used to wake me at 5 am for morning runs to the Puri Lukisan Museum. The old bridge over the river, the sound of birds at dawn and resting by the lotus pond are etched in my memory. I also spent a lot of time at my grandfather’s house, where he, a painter, never formally taught me but let me play in his studio. I would run around with my cousins, fishing or catching frogs in the rice fields.
From a young age, I loved watching and observing people. That might be why I connect so well with artists, writers, and dancers now. My childhood shaped who I am today, and Bali is at the heart of it.
What Does An Average Working Day Look Like As A Creative Director In Ubud?
Each day brings something new. Ubud may be a small village, but it’s never dull. My mornings start with a choice: go for a run or head to Littletalks, a library and café I co-founded. There, I meet my team over coffee and plan my day, either diving into my Google Calendar or heading to the Ubud Writers & Readers Festival office. I also make it a habit to read a chapter of a book every morning.
Art events take place almost daily in Bali, with exhibitions, workshops, film screenings, and performances all around. I enjoy marking events that can impact my projects or my work and love meeting new faces, listening and engaging in discussions that shape my creative approach. By evening, I return to my laptop or writing, sometimes working into the early hours of the morning, before the day begins again.
Where Do You Go To Find Inspiration In Ubud?
When I need inspiration, I turn to nature. Before immersing myself in media or external ideas, I clear my mind by gazing into empty spaces. Whether it’s Mount Batur, Sanur Beach or Uluwatu, I find peace in the mountains and beaches. When I climb, I don’t always aim for the summit, preferring instead to enjoy the journey, just as I do when I sit by the shore and resist the urge to swim too far.
Ubud holds a unique magic that’s difficult to put into words. It may not have beaches, mountains, or modern cities like other places, but it possesses ‘taksu’ – a spiritual force or charisma that gives it a presence unlike anywhere else. Ubud moves with its community, its customs, and the people who call it home or visit it. Some say Ubud comes from the Balinese word ‘ubad’, meaning medicine. I believe there’s something to that.
What Misconceptions About Your Hometown Would You Like To Set Straight?
Ubud is often associated only with yoga, and while yoga is part of its modern identity, Ubud isn’t just about yoga or veganism. The people here come from all walks of life, and their professions, passions and interests extend far beyond the stereotypical image of yoga instructors and health-conscious diets.
Artists such as Miguel Covarrubias, Walter Spies, and Rudolf Bonnet all found inspiration here, as did Charlie Chaplin in the 1930s. Bali is open to everyone and offers endless perspectives, collaborations, challenges and creative possibilities. It’s a melting pot of rituals, traditions and spirituality, all of which have shaped how I approach my work.
As a Balinese, my culture and traditions influence my creativity, and Bali’s beauty and its people provide the comfort I need in my artistic pursuits. The spirituality of the island ignites my imagination, and this openness to both the past and the future fuels my artistic collaborations.
08.08.2024
As told to Pia Brynteson
