Where To Eat, Drink & Go For Aperitivo During Milan Fashion Week
If I were to place a bet, I’d wager that over a single day in Milan, you’d encounter at least six people wearing a T-shirt that reads, ‘Ti amo Milano Ti odio’. That’s ‘I love you Milan I hate you,’ in case you haven’t already seen it plastered across the city.
It’s a clever jab that’s become this year’s marketing sensation. Milan is the quintessential love/hate affair: a city you can’t help but adore, and yet it’s so irresistibly easy to despise. It’s practically a sport here. When someone asks, ‘How are you?’, the appropriate response involves a laundry list of grievances about how life would be infinitely better somewhere else: if only the weather were more reliable; if only the city weren’t so small and repetitive.
Yet we all adore it precisely for these quirks: the weather is often merciful, and despite its compact size, Milan manages to make every friendship more precious and every new acquaintance a rare gem.
That’s what makes Milan the perfect backdrop for Fashion Week – a whirlwind of encounters where you’re either trying to meet new faces or dodge familiar ones. Working at Vogue Italia (I write in the culture section, but during Fashion Week, everything seems to be about fashion), I have my expertise in bars and the clandestine spots where I’ve hidden away to write, rant, wolf down food to avoid fainting or just unwind with a drink. They’re also the places where I go to laugh, meet charming strangers, and occasionally kiss one…
The Best Breakfasts To Start Your Day In Milan
- Sissi – ‘Colazione da Sissi’ is Milan’s answer to Breakfast At Tiffany’s. With its charming pink walls, it’s the perfect place for romantic confessions, while the freshly stuffed hot croissants stand witness to those heartfelt moments.
- PAN – This Japanese-inspired bakery is renowned for its shokupan (milk bread) and offers a serene setting ideal for mentally preparing for the day ahead. Its tranquil atmosphere makes it the perfect escape before facing a busy schedule.
- Gattullo – Tucked away in a stylish corner of the city, Gattullo is your go-to for a sophisticated sip of coffee or a cheeky nightcap, whether you’re looking to impress a date or simply unwind with friends.
Where To Stop For Lunch Between Shows In Milan
- Sugo – Nestled near Piazza del Duomo but hidden in a narrow alley, Sugo offers classic Milanese cuisine with a twist. The chef describes it as “fast fine dining” – a blend of traditional osteria and quick, efficient service.
- Trattoria Milanese – For an authentic Milanese experience, Trattoria Milanese is the place to go. Enjoy classic dishes such as risotto alla Milanese and cotoletta, all within a historic setting dating from 1933. It’s conveniently located near Piazza Affari and not far from Condé Nast, making it a prime spot for turning a business lunch into a more enjoyable date.
- Trattoria del Pescatore – For excellent seafood, look no further than Trattoria del Pescatore, a staple since 1976. It’s the go-to spot for fresh fish and also features a delightful express Lobster Bar adjacent to the main restaurant.
Where To Enjoy Aperitivo Time In Milan
- Bar Quadronno – It’s Miuccia Prada’s favourite spot in Milan for an aperitivo and a sandwich. And Matthieu Blazy of Bottega Veneta adores the place so much that he dedicated a bag to it – the Quadronno.
- Sidewalk Kitchens – A variety of venues on the same small street where you can enjoy cuisines from different continents (Japanese katsu sandos and hamburgers alike) and drink a beer or a glass of natural wine.
- Camparino in Galleria – For more than 100 years, intellectuals, writers, and artists alike have been here sipping a Campari (more likely, a spritz Campari) and coming up with revolutionary ideas while gazing at the Duomo.
Milan Fashion Week-Approved Dinner Spots
- Trattoria della Gloria – This simple checkered-tablecloth trattoria in the Navigli area used to be part of a long, family-owned tradition. Now, the three current owners are taking its Milanese cuisine legacy in a modern new direction.
- Giacomo Bistrot – If you’re planning an elegant and refined dinner – whether with a client, colleague or romantic interest – then Giacomo Bistrot is the place. The books decorating the walls provide the ideal setting for any photo opportunity.
- Nebbia – You could translate the name as ‘fog’; a lovely peculiarity of Milan in the fall and winter. While you might not see bus stops, restaurant signs (or the red flags of the person you’re with) at Nebbia, you can enjoy the quirky reinterpretations of traditional Italian dishes by the chef. Try the chicken liver parfait.
The Fashion Crowd’s After-Dinner Hangouts In Milan
- Bar Basso – Even during foggy nights, Milan’s most famous neon sign points to Bar Basso, where every night artists and creatives gather to drink a spritz or a negroni sbagliato (which was coincidentally invented here and is served in a gigantic glass).
- Bar Nico – It’s not that you’ll tire of Bar Basso, but some days you might just want a glass of natural wine in a more intimate spot with friends, or people who might become your friends if you meet them at Bar Nico.
- Section 80 Bar – There’s always something happening at Section 80, a hotspot in the north of Milan – be it a garage sale, a series of documentary film screenings or the release party for an independent artist. While sipping some carefully selected wine at the counter, you can also buy a magazine from the adjacent room.
Francesca Faccani is a Milan-based writer and culture editor of Vogue Italia
