Dublin Guide: Where To Eat & Drink, What To Do & How To Find The Perfect Guinness 

“Dublin is a city of poets and dreamers, of rebels and troublemakers” was how Irish literary giant Brendan Behan described his hometown. Evidence of the city’s famous (and infamous) characters can be seen everywhere, from the statues of a reclining Oscar Wilde and Phil Lynott leaning on his guitar to Molly Malone pushing her barrow – and, of course the city’s plentiful pubs, so many of which have strong ties to the city’s literary culture, as you’ll discover here in our Dublin guide. Behan himself was a regular at Grogan’s and The Palace Bar, while Davy Byrne’s is a pilgrimage site for fans of James Joyce as it appears in the pages of Ulysses.

Of course, there’s more to the city than just the craic (although there’s plenty to be had). Many visitors might not realise just how close the city is to the coast – take a Dart train north to the fishing village of Howth or south to Dún Laoghaire pier for a bracing sea walk just 30 minutes from the city centre. Then there’s Phoenix Park – Europe’s largest city green space. There’s also a wealth of art – whether on the streets by artists such as Maser, or in its museums and galleries, from the Hugh Lane and the Irish Museum Of Modern Art to the National Gallery of Ireland.  

Then there’s Dublin’s mention the buzzing food scene, with new restaurants, cafes and bars opening all the time as the city becomes a sponge for culinary influences from all over the world. Dublin-born chef Andy McFadden, who heads up Michellin-starred Glover’s Alley in the centre of the city, believes the strength of the city’s food scene lies in the quality of Irish produce and its outward-looking approach. “There are a lot of amazing producers with a lot of passion for what they do. Also, the diverse global cuisine… it’s a real melting pot of cultures,” says McFadden. And there are new trends emerging all the time: “There are some really cool places doing small plates without a formality to the menu, and [we’re also seeing] a shift towards vegetable-focused cuisine,” he adds. 

Inspired to visit? Below, Service95 recommends the places to eat and sights to see in Dublin – plus, how to find the perfect pint of Guinness. 

5 Must-Visit Restaurants In Dublin 

1. La Gordita – Fine-dining tapas – such as cured cod carpaccio and tempura spring onions – in an intimate setting. 

2. El Silencio – You’ll find delicious tacos and margaritas in this speakeasy bar, accessed through a hidden door. 

3. Loose Cannon – This wine bar is famous for its cheese toasties, and is the perfect people-watching spot. 

4. The Winding Stair – Modern Irish fare with views over the city’s famous Ha’Penny Bridge and a fantastic bookshop downstairs. 

5. Space Jaru – Popular for its Korean fried chicken and bulgogi fries – perfect for a quick lunch or dinner. 

How To Spot The Perfect Pint Of Guinness 

Dubliners are fiercely proud of the quality of their Guinness – and this is the best place in the world to try it. But how to spot the perfect pint? Pádraig Fox is a Guinness global brand ambassador who knows a thing or two about (double) pouring the perfect pint.  

According to Fox, it’s a highly scientific process, starting with the “cool, clean and dry Guinness glass”, followed by the first pour at 45 degrees, the first settle – taking a pause between pours “until we see a clear separation of the creamy head and the dark liquid underneath”, the top-up pour to create “a lovely convex dome on top” and, finally, the last settle, during which time the creamy head should reach 12-18mm.  

Finally, the Guinness should be ready to taste, and Fox has this advice: “An error a lot of people make when tasting Guinness for the first time is that they take a small sip of the head – this is actually where the nitrogen bubbles have settled and is the most bitter part of the pint. The best way to taste Guinness is to not look into the glass, but to look to the horizon, raise the glass and take a big gulp through the head into the dark ruby-red beer. This is the true flavour of Guinness – rich roast, velvety creamy, full-bodied mouthfeel, earthy bitterness and a lingering bittersweet finish all come together for a perfectly balanced taste. Don’t be afraid of getting a Guinness ’tache!” 

5 Spots For A Great Pint Of Guinness In Dublin 

1. Grogan’s – A sunny summer’s day outside this pub in the heart of Dublin is the most coveted seat in town. In winter, snuggle into its tiny interior and peruse the walls lined with works by local artists. 

2. Kehoe’s – Always packed with an after-work crowd of thirsty Dubliners, and no wonder when the Guinness is this good. 

3. The Gravity Bar – Because no trip to Dublin is complete without a visit to the home of the ‘black stuff’ (as locals call it), this bar at the top of the Guinness Storehouse has panoramic city views. 

4. The Palace Bar – Once described by poet Patrick Kavanagh as “the most wonderful temple of art”, this beloved Dublin institution has attracted a literary crowd since 1823. 

5. The Cobblestone – A hidden gem just outside the city centre; if you’re lucky, you’ll catch one of its regular live Irish traditional music sessions. 

5 Activities To Try In Dublin 

1. Street Art Tour – A two-hour stroll taking in some of the most vibrant of the city’s murals, installations and graffiti. 

2. RHA Gallery – Home to some of the most exciting new Irish and global artistic talent across five gallery spaces, all free to visit. 

3. Kilmainham Gaol Museum Tour – Go on a journey through the past two centuries of Irish history on this immersive and emotive tour. 

4. EPIC The Irish Emigration Museum – Telling the story of the Irish diaspora, who brought culture to all corners of the globe through emigration. 

5. The Comedy Cellar – Contrary to its name, this comedy club is upstairs at The International Bar, and hosts big-name and up-and-coming comics from Ireland and beyond. 

5 Spots Every Book Lover Should Visit In Dublin 

1. The Dublin Literary Pub Crawl – Cross the city via the favourite watering holes of some of its literary giants, including James Joyce, Oscar Wilde, W.B. Yeats and Brendan Behan.  

2. Trinity College Old Library – The magnificent wood-panelled Long Room is home to 200,000 of the university’s oldest books. You’ll also see the 9^th century gospel manuscript, The Book Of Kells. 

3. The City’s Bookshops – Dublin is home to some treasure troves for bibliophiles. Don’t miss Gutter Bookshop, The Winding Stair (which has an excellent restaurant upstairs), Ulysses Rare Books and Books Upstairs. 

4. The James Joyce Museum – A fascinating visit for fans of the writer, located in a Martello Tower in Sandycove, a location from his masterpiece, Ulysses. 

5. Marsh’s Library – Opened in 1707, this beautiful library has been frequented by Jonathan Swift, Bram Stoker and James Joyce. 

Katie Teehan is Editorial Director at Service95